First-time users should start by using retinol once or twice a week, gradually increasing to every other day—if your skin can handle it, you can bump up to nightly use. Whatever the frequency, there may be an adjustment period of slight irritation, so just be prepared. It’s normal!
Over-the-counter vitamin-A formulations, like those with retinol and retinaldehyde (often shortened to retinal), tend to be weaker because the skin has to convert them to retinoic acid before they can take full effect. With any retinoid, especially if you have sensitive skin, practice restraint and apply a pea-size drop only one or two nights a week until your skin acclimates.
As explained by Chicago-based dermatologist Caroline Robinson, MD, avoid mixing retinol with benzoyl peroxide as they neutralize each other, thus, making both ingredients far less effective—and we definitely don’t want that. Still, you can separate the two and use benzoyl peroxide in the morning and reserve retinol for nighttime application. Similarly, if you want to use both vitamin C and retinol in your skin-care routine, use vitamin C in the daytime and retinol at night.
Other no-no’s? Mixing retinol with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA) will result in major irritation and barrier disruption. Dermatologists recommend alternating the days you use AHA and retinol, or replacing salicylic acid with peptides—the latter enhances the penetration of retinol.
Will retinol irritate my skin?
New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD, reminds us that some degree of irritation—like dryness, peeling, redness, flaking, and burning—can be anticipated and should subside by the fourth week. You can also buffer your retinoids with a dollop of anti-inflammatory serum or lotion—ideally formulas spiked with niacinamide, polyphenols, lipids, and ceramides. It’s also key to start your retinol journey with a lower-potency option. “Look for [something] like retinyl propionate, as it’s much milder on the skin as compared to pure retinol,” Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City, previously told Allure. “You can think of it as an entry-level version.”
Landing on a retinol your skin won’t reject takes patience and knowledge, but most of the latter’s credit goes to the cosmetic chemists who’ve dreamed up innovative ways to deliver all the magic of this molecule without the cursed side effects.
What are retinol alternatives?
If you have sensitive skin, are pregnant and/or breastfeeding, or simply don’t want to deal with this active’s side effects (stinging, flaking, and skin purging, to name a few), you can consider the retinol alternatives explained below.
Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is the most well-known retinol alternative out there. “Bakuchiol, like retinol, works by increasing cell turnover, thereby stimulating collagen production and diminishing wrinkles, skin laxity, and overall photo-damage,” Ellen Marmur, MD, a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist, previously told Allure without the sting commonly associated with retinoids.
Niacinamide
If discoloration is your concern, niacinamide is the antioxidant for you. “Niacinamide works with your skin’s natural chemistry to improve overall skin texture by rebuilding a lipid layer, minimizing the appearance of pores, and preventing UV damage and inflammation as an antioxidant,” Seattle-based board-certified dermatologist Brandith Irwin, MD, previously told Allure. Also known as vitamin B3, this powerhouse ingredient evens skin tone, minimizes redness, and reduces inflammation.
Peptides
Last but certainly not least are peptides, a must-have for diminishing the look of wrinkles and firming up sagging skin. Dr. Kim previously told Allure that peptides are designed to boost and replenish amino acids, also known as the building blocks for collagen production. Often recommended for mature skin, peptides can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and leave skin looking tighter.
Meet the experts
- Mamina Turegano, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New Orleans, Louisiana
- David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Idriss Dermatology in New York City
- Ni’Kita Wilson, a cosmetic chemist
- Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City
- Brandith Irwin, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Seattle, Washington
- Sheila Farhang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Tuscon, Arizona, and founder of Avant Dermatology & Aesthetics
- Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City
How we test and review products
When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle in an effort to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing each and every product that’s included in each and every review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.
