How to Use Retinol for Sensitive Skin

Retinol is one of those skincare ingredients that gets a lot of love from basically every expert in the industry. Not only is it one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients you can slather, but it also comes with a long and robust history of scientific testing and studies that prove it’s a legit hero. The catch? The side effects can make retinol a bit of an issue, especially for sensitive skin types. We asked pros to share how to use retinol for sensitive skin to minimize these side effects, so you can still reap those youthful rewards. 

Related: 12 Rookie Mistakes to Avoid When Using Retinol

What Is Retinol? 

Retinol is a type of retinoid that you can purchase over the counter. It’s usually formulated into a cream or serum, and is heralded for its ability to anti-aging properties. 

“Retinols and retinoids are ingredients in skincare products that encourage collagen production to keep skin firm and youthful, and to limit the formation of fine lines and wrinkles,” explains Brendan Camp, MD, FAAD, a double-board certified dermatologist at MDSC Dermatology. The ingredient is also commonly used to treat issues such as acne, hyperpigmentation, and rough or uneven skin texture. 

Common Side Effects of Retinol 

Along with all these amazing anti-aging, skin-clearing benefits, retinol comes with a handful of side effects that aren’t exactly desirable. These include flaking, redness, drying, stinging, and photosensitivity. Everyone is susceptible to dealing with these side effects, especially during the introductory phase where your skin is acclimating to the ingredient. 

“Those with sensitive skin may have an increased risk of skin irritation from using retinoid, but this should not preclude them from using these types of products,” Dr. Camp says. “Retinols can often be tolerated if used safely.” 

Tips for Using Retinol With Sensitive Skin 

Even if you have sensitive skin, you can still use retinol. The key is to use retinol products made for sensitive skin, and to use the products in a way that minimizes irritation and side effects.  

1. Ease Into Usage

I inform patients to begin using a retinol or retinoid once every third night for one month, then once every other night for one month if tolerated, and then nightly if tolerated.” If you never get to the nightly cadence, that’s OK, too. Stick to what works for your skin. 

2. Use a Low Concentration 

Don’t jump right into a high concentration of retinol (or a prescription retinoid). Instead, reach for a mild option. “Starting with a lower concentration retinol product may help your skin develop a tolerance to it before using retinols of higher concentrations,” Dr. Camp explains. 

3. Mix With Moisturizer

When beginning to use retinol for sensitive skin, Dr. Camp suggests mixing a pea-size amount with an equal amount of moisturizer before applying it to your skin. “This will dilute the retinol and may help you tolerate it better,” he says. You can also try a “retinol sandwich” where you apply a moisturizer, then the retinol, then a moisturizer on top. 

4. Don’t Apply After a Hot Shower

Avoid applying retinol immediately after stepping out of a hot shower if you have sensitive skin. The heat and steam can increase skin sensitivity, making skin more prone to irritation, redness, and dryness. 

5. Always Use SPF 

Wearing sunscreen everyday is important whether you use retinol or not (it’s your skin’s best defense against skin cancer and premature aging). However, Dr. Westbay stresses the importance of applying it when using retinol since this ingredient may make your skin more sensitive to the skin, adding to potential irritation. 

6. Stay Consistent 

A common mistake people make is backing away from usage the second they see a single side effect. It’s important to remain consistent in usage so your skin can acclimate to the product. 

The Best Retinols for Sensitive Skin

Along with following the above advice on using retinol on sensitive skin, stick to mild and gentle formulations. 

Encapsulated Retinol

Encapsulated retinol covers the retinol in a gentle bubble and slowly releases the active ingredients over time. “This is more protective towards the skin barrier and gentler on the skin,” says Rachel Westbay, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical.

Retinyl Palmitate 

Another option is to try “retinyl palmitate” instead of pure retinol. “Retinyl palmitate is a type of over the counter vitamin A that is an even gentler option than retinol,” Dr. Westbay says. Check out amino acids, vitamin C, vitamin B5, and hydrolyzed rice protein for further anti-aging benefits.

Bakuchiol

If retinol isn’t cutting it for your sensitive skin no matter what you try, Dr. Camp suggests using a retinol alternative like bakuchiol. “Bakuchiol is a plant-based product that is reported to have similar benefits to retinol without the same side effect profile,” he says. “Bakuchiol is typically well-tolerated from the beginning and requires no adjustment phase.”